A Mughal courtier’s lost garden

Written By Unknown on Senin, 22 Juli 2013 | 22.18

NEW DELHI: The minute you drive out of Indira Gandhi International Airport, you pass MehramNagar. To many, the village is just another locality with open drains, narrow lanes and garbage. Only the cognoscenti know it's home to ruins of a lost era.

A gateway, a mosque, an enclosing wall, a katra and an authentic Mughal garden—all in various stages of dilapidation and decay—stand testimony to the historicity of the settlement set up in mid-17 th century and named after Mughal courtier Mehram Khan.

"This place is home to three generations of my family. There was a sarai here with three imposing gateways and an enclosing wall. Only fragments of the original architecture have survived and what is left may disappear soon with so much construction happening everywhere. No government agency has ever showed an interest in these structures," old-timer Manohal Lal said.

Only one of the three gateways to the 17th-century Mughal sarai stands today. One other vanished decades ago and remnants of the third can be seen between a cluster of shops and houses. The surviving gateway is an imposing double-storey structure with pointed arch openings enclosed by a cusped arch facade. The side bays have been encroached by shopowners but the fact that the wooden gates are buried at least two feet deep stands testimony to their age. A few feet away, construction work for a Metro station is on full swing. "Alterations to the structure combined with encroachments have come at a cost to the gateway. At first glance, one can barely see what remains of the original structure," said a conservationist.

Some distance away lie remains of the sarai wall. Portions of it can be seen inside the village interspersed by new constructions and houses. Made of rubble masonry, the wall is six metres high and crowned by battlements and vaulted chambers. A significant chunk of the western wall vanished several years ago when a road was laid between Mehram Nagar and a large green area on the other side. A parking lot being built adjacent to the southern wall has taken a toll.

The farmland on the opposite side of Mehram Nagar, is owned by the defence ministry. It houses portions of the enclosing wall and a baoli and is known as Mehram Khan's garden. The ruins stand forgotten, made inaccessible by thick foliage and dense vegetation.

Yet they can be conserved to make Mehram Nagar a prime tourist attraction especially as it's located so close to the airport, say experts.

"It's the first historical site once you drive out of the airport. Delhi is promoted extensively as a heritage destination. Once restored, it will showcase its historical origins well," said an official.

The state archaeology department has identified some of the ruins for conservation and protection in Phase III of a project, the MoU of which has been signed by Intach and Delhi government (Phase II is yet to take off), but "in the meantime, the government should keep a tab and ensure the ruins do not fall prey to urbanization. With so much construction work happening around Mehram Nagar, the ruins could disappear completely", an official said.


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